Modern Latin cooking next to a hundred-year-old church, with a mesquite grill doing the heavy lifting. The room is all black candlelit drama, but the food is unpretentious at its core: smoke, citrus, chile, and pork handled by people who respect all four.
The tableside guacamole is a cliché that earns its keep. The pork shoulder is the dish the regulars actually order.
When to go: lunch is the sleeper — same wood fire, calmer room, smaller bill. Dinner reservations are near-mandatory in season (January through April).