Spanish cooking is strangely scarce in a state this saturated with Mexican and Southwestern kitchens. Prado, the flagship of the Omni Montelucia, fills the gap inside a Moorish-Andalusian fantasy of arches, tile and fountains, with Camelback looming over the roofline. It should read as theme park. After nearly two decades, it just reads as dependable.
Order toward the fire — the wood-fired side of the kitchen is where the Spanish accent is strongest — and let a rioja be the house pour rather than the adventure.
When to go: a courtyard table at dusk from fall through spring. Sunday brunch is the local institution; book ahead in season and expect a birthday at every other table.