The Old Town Italian rooms charge for the address. Pasta Brioni, in a Miller Road strip center since the early 1990s, charges for scratch pasta, hand-rolled meatballs and rolls baked every morning — and it has a parking lot, which in this part of town counts as hospitality.
Owner-chef Michael Siggins sold his tax practice to run the place full-time, and the room runs on regulars-as-family energy that Phoenix New Times once likened to Cheers. Start with the meatballs; finish with a cannoli.
When to go: a weeknight, when tables are easy. Friday and Saturday the regulars book early, so reserve ahead.