A glass box on the Civic Center that has been serving cold martinis, burgers and towering fries since 1988, with art installations that rotate more often than the menu does. Nothing here is trying to win awards; everything is trying to be exactly what you want at 10:45 PM, which is harder.
The fries earn their fame, and the martini arrives cold enough to fog the glass. Look up — the ceiling is usually where the art is.
When to go: after 9:00 PM, when the post-show crowd from across the park and the off-shift restaurant people arrive. The kitchen keeps going until midnight.